Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Seeking spirituality in Coroba


Corboda (or Cordova), in the Andalusian part of Spain and the second largest old town in Europe, is a city I have been wanting to visit for a very long time. I dreamt of walking the streets where Muslims, Christians and Jews were able to co-exist, work and live alongside each other quite harmoniously. I greatly anticipated viewing the great La Mezquita (the Great Mosque)- originally a Visigoth church, purchased and converted into a mosque and, then as part of the Spanish conquistador, turned into a cathedral.

We had arrived in the city late and La Mezquita was closed so hubby and I walked around the compounds- of course I managed to capture so many great shots of the exquisite exterior of La Mezquita. 








So with much anticipation, we got up early and arrived at La Mezquita before the crowds and the official opening. Through the golden doors, we entered the internal courtyard with its citrus and palm trees. I immediately felt a huge sense of calmness. I was finally here. 



I didn't loiter too much in the courtyard though as I wanted to be in La Mezquita itself. Walking into such a place was surreal and a delight for the senses. Your eyes did not know know where to look first. Do you take in the nearly 900 columns made out of marble, jasper, granite and onyx? Or the famed red-striped arches (doubled arches) unique to La Mezquita? Do you look at the many breathtakingly beautiful domes? Do you marvel at the pillars or hold your breath when you viewed the murals? Or do you, as a Muslim, run straight for the mihrab and study the calligraphy, geometric shapes, flowering plants and rich colours? 








 While hubby wandered around on his own, I decided to take in La Mezquita, inch by inch, starting right at the door. With my camera forever  attached to my eyes, I studied the exquisite and unique architecture and artwork. But when I arrived at the mihrab, I wanted to simply sit there, in awe of its beauty as well as its history. It was an overwhelming sense of spiritual connection with my Creator and his Majesty. Perhaps this was what famed poet Muhammad Iqbal felt when he first visited La Mezquita in the 1930s.





I wanted to reflect on being a creation of God. I wanted to pray- but I couldn’t. The guards hovered around me with ever vigilant eyes. I knew it was against the law for me as a Muslim to perform my prayers- I would be forced to stop or shooed out of La Mezquita. I thought that perhaps if I simply sat there, quietly in a corner, say my prayers, it would be okay and a substitute for what I really wanted to do- stand and prostrate to my Creator. However, the guards would not let me out of their sight. One guard, in particular, followed me around. If I even made an attempt to crouch or sit, he would quickly demand that I stand. 
 
I watched the morning mass, being held at that time in the Christian part of La Mezquita, and viewed the other areas where pews were available for people to sit down and offer their prayer with envy because I couldn’t do the same in this place because I am a Muslim. 






Perhaps I am naïve but I was hoping that in a city which was once a true example of true religious co-existence, I would be allowed to offer my prayers in a place of worship I have been dreaming of visiting for the longest time. I don't want to make a noisy show of it- just quietly pray in a corner somewhere. I guess I will have to simply accept the situation.

The Train, the Hotel and THAT View in Cordoba, Spain


Folks if you need to travel between cities in Spain I highly recommend taking the trains, operated by Renfe. They are efficient, clean and reasonable priced. The train ride from Madrid Atocha to Cordoba was under 2 hours (and that was a slow train LOL), costing 56 euros. 
 
Cordoba is easy to get around and after a quick 5 minute taxi ride from the train, we arrived at our hotel, the NH Hesperia. And what a wonderful hotel- not only was the staff welcoming and helpful, we were also treated to some drinks and pastries. 

What a wonderful welcome!

The Andalusian inspired tiles as the backdrop for our bedhead, with crisp white sheets

A close-up shot of the tiles

The Roman Bridge leading up to La Mezquita- our view from NH Hesperia






The décor was simple, yet stunning in true Andalusian style. And the view.. .OMG what a spectacular view- both day and night La Mezquita beckons to be photographed (and of course I obliged with much pleasure). The breakfast was also in true Andalusian style- my favourite was the variety of cheese and whole meal bread available as well as the freshly squeezed juices, hubby’s favourite was basically everything, but especially the almond and walnut milk. 
 
So folks if you want a great place to stay in Cordoba, with a great view  at a reasonable price Hotel Hesperia comes highly recommended by hubby and me!

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

A Hemingway-inspired Madrid


As a teenager I was obsessed with Ernest Hemingway. If I had to write an essay for English I would have written something about Hemingway. Thankfully I outgrew that phase and ventured into other genres and explored other great writers.

But here I am in Madrid and the only thing that comes to mind is Hemingway's Madrid. I wish I had brought with me a few of his books to re-read; alas, clothes and other essentials were more of a necessity. 

Hemingway loved Madrid passionately and once said, "Madrid is a mountain city with a mountain climate. It has the high cloudless Spanish sky which makes the Italian sky seem sentimental and it has the air that is actively pleasurable to breathe." Oh I love that last thought...

He later said, "If it has nothing else than the Prado it would be worth spending an entire month in every spring, if you have the money to spend a month in any European capital. But when you have the Prado and the bullfight season at the same time with the El Escorial not two hours to the north and Toledo to the south, a fine road to Avila and a fine road to Segovia, which is no distance to La Granja, it makes you feel badly, all questions of immortality aside, to know that you will die and never see it again."

With all that in mind, I dragged my husband to explore some of Hemingway's favourite haunts. By foot, we followed the mostly tree-lined Calle de Atocha from our hotel and passed by the Palace Hotel (now Westin Palace Hotel) where Hemingway enjoyed staying and dining.




We then ventured to Plaza del Sol where the locals hang out, catching the sun's rays and chilling with friends and family. Just around the corner, cafes, restaurants and shops beckon.





And finally after admiring all the ornate, old buildings all around us, we found ourselves in Plaza de Mayor. I tried to imagine Hemingway, lost in thought about life. I can understand why he loved this Plaza so much- there is indeed so much going on here. Back in the day, the Plaza was home to sporting events, bullfights, markets and also public executions, especially during the Spanish inquisition.

Today, however, it is popular place for tourists and locals alike, with the lure of its artwork, cafes and restaurants.



One of the archway's leading to Plaza de Mayor







 There is stunning artwork on this face of the building, announcing that we were indeed in the plaza.


We didn't get to completely follow Hemingway's footsteps as we had to rush off to catch a train to Cordoba, but the little we got to glimpse helped us understand why he loved this city so much- a city full of life and passion. Perhaps when we return in two weeks' time for a day, we might even catch a bite to eat in his once-favourite restaurant, Botin.

Saturday, September 1, 2012

It's been a while...

Sorry folks- I realise it has been a while since I last posted anything on this blog even though I have managed to traverse more parts of the world. Alas, life gets busy and well... yeah you know how it is. But I am back and this time to share some wonderful news. I am going to fulfill one of my dream trips- Spain and Morocco. For so many years I have wanted to go, drooled every time I heard someone was going and stalked their FB status for updates and photos from their trips. And now it is my turn alhamdulliah. Unfortunately it isn't all of Spain and all of Morocco, but the most important cities are included in this trip.

So folks I am back! And I can't wait to share with you notes, reflections and photos from my journey. To give you an idea where I am off to, starting from tonight, here's a map....




The itinerary for the 3 week trip involves:

First leg of the trip: Fly into Madrid, then train to Cordoba, train to Granada and train to Algeciras.

Second leg of trip: Ferry from Algeciras to Tangier, then train to Rabat, train to Marrakesh, train to Fez, back to Tangier.

Final leg of trip: Ferry from Tangier to Malaga, overnight in Malaga and train to Madrid. Flight home.

I hope you are ready for photo overload! :)





Monday, May 2, 2011

Bustling Bazaars

I have been to a number of bazaars in Mecca and Medina, Malaysia, Vietnam and Thailand, so I wasn't expecting much. But the bazaars in Istanbul were amazing-bustling works of art. Every vendor showcases his or her wares as if they were things not to just to be sold, but were items to tantilise the five senses- sight, smell, taste, touch and hearing. Things were lined exactly; colours coordinated perfectly...It was an absolute delight to behold and experience as these pictures will show.

















One of the most famous bazaars in Istanbul is the Grand Bazaar- or known by the Turks as Kapali Cursi. The 15th century covered bazaar is one of the biggest and oldest in the world. It covers nearly 60 streets and contains about 4000 shops. It has 2 mosques, a police station, numerous restaurants and cafes. And I believe it sells almost anything you could want. Mind you I didn't buy anything from there, because I found the haggling and pushiness to be too much for me. As a good friend told hubby, the Grand Bazaar is simply for looking, not for buying. If you want to buy, you need to shop where the local shops. Nevertheless, if you are ever in Istanbul you have to visit the Grand Bazaar. It is an experience not be missed and you will need a few hours to meander though the maze of shops.






Monday, April 25, 2011

Majestic Istanbul

For so long I have wanted to come to Istanbul. I remember as a young adult reading about the great history, the beautiful, majestic mosques and the many ruins doting the city. And now I am here, finally.

H and I have been here for 4 days and tomorrow is our last day and honestly I don't want to leave. I wish we had more time to travel around Turkey, but unfortunately we need to move on to the third leg of our trip, Syria (yes I know- are we crazy with everything that is happening there atm?). 

So four days here and hours of walking all day (and night), we have managed to cover most parts of Istanbul- old, new and Asia which included the historical sites, mosques, churches, fountains, palaces, ruins and museums.

And what a beautiful, splendid and majestic city. There is so much appreciation for culture, art and history here. It is breathtaking- every aspect of it.

While you can spend weeks here in Istanbul, we found 4 days to be perfect. Our itinerary included:

Day 1: The Sultanahmet Mosque (the Blue Mosque), the Turkish Islamic and Arts Museum, The Turkish Science Museum, the New Mosque and the Spice Bazaar.

Enough of my rambling- let's let the photos speak for Istanbul. Mind you, I took over 1500 photos, so this is only a snapshot of this breathtaking place.


Despite a very cold, wet morning there are still many eager visitors tot the Blue Mosque, including us
Absolutely in awe of everything, like the intricate arches in the courtyard of the mosque


We managed to perfom most of our prayers at the Blue Mosque. It was only a 5 minute walk from our hotel.



The view from the park in the afternoon, with the sun struggling to come through after a very wet day.


A glimpse at the Blue Dome inside the Mosque


The dilemma for me was that the mosque is so absolutely beautiful that I did not know where to start...


A bit of Andaluscian influence can be seen throughout the Blue Mosque





 Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, near the Blue Mosque








The garden courtyard of the Museum

















Halim with his "book cover"